There's one thing I remember of my
very first day in Auckland: the pronunciation of the word Maori.
Damned it.
I wake up on a bright, sunny day
and head outside for a quick breakfast at the nearby cafeteria. In an hour I'd
have to meet up with this random guy to check out his '91 Honda Accord. I
quickly swallow a cinnamon roll and a latte, and go back to the motel, ready to
either pack my stuff and check out, or to pay for another night and resume my
car-hunt.
My man shows up on time and I meet
him at the back of the motel, him being a young dude with a Major League cap, a
bit of a paunch and Jesus-style hair.
I lose him about 2,5 seconds into
the conversation. I resume the use of the "Sorry?!" thing really
quick - every time he opens his mouth basically - that's how much I could
understand a Kiwi so far.
After a cursory check, we agree to
set out for a test-drive, me at the wheel.
"Haven't been driving this
side of the road in a while", I think.
"Let's see if I can mind the
road and the language at the same time now".
While driving, the car seems ok -
ain't no Lamborghini but I ain't no Donald Trump - and I take a chance at
asking the guy a few questions. Yeah, about the language. I feel scared as crap
at what could potentially be laying ahead of me. Language-wise.
We have a bit of a conversation,
til the point he mentions a certain word that gets my attention. He says
something like "marry", which doesn't really belong to the speech. I
stop him, ask him to repeat.
"Yeah it's because the 'marry'
population, you know.."
The hell. What's this marry
population business?!
Then a little light pops on in my
brain. Isn't this country home to the Maori?! Could that be the way they say
'maori' over here?
I ask him, "Do you mean, the
natives?"
"Yeah mate"
Bingo.
We kept talking about this and that
- basically the whole thing shifted on the Maori, how they're impoverished compared
to white new zealanders, and how poverty boosts alcoholism and drugs use. Same
old topics that show up while referring to any native population around the
world, you know. Eskimos or
Aboriginals are no exception.
Anyway, the moral: I was screwed. I
understood ‘marry’ rather than ‘maori’. Really? I felt desperate. In a
conversation I realized I couldn’t have gotten a decent job, I couldn’t have
gotten a satisfying social life and I couldn’t have been understood by those
quick mouthed folks as good as I wanted. Buying a car turned into a linguistic
reality check.
By the time the tour ended though,
I made up my mind.
“Alright man, how much you’re
asking for it?”
“Can’t go much lower than 17
hundred”, he says.
“How about 15?”
“Hmm, let me see.. well, screw it,
it’s ok!”
“Sweet”, got my deal.
I handle him the cash and receive
the keys and instructions on how to go register the car under my name. We sign
the papers at the nearest post office, shake hands, and off he goes in his
girlfriend’s car.
I was officially a car owner in New
Zealand, and I was close to finally take off to new pastures, new adventures,
my planned scampers.
Back at the motel I inform the
receptionist that I’d have been leaving soon, just the time to get my stuff
together, dump them into the car and drive away. I was already craving for some
form of stability, for a permanent place where to stay, a house, a flat, a
room, a shelter in the woods, any place where I could finally drop my bags,
take stuff out of them and enjoy seeing my bags empty. Basically, settling down
somewhere.
It wasn’t time though, not yet. It
was time to set out on a random route and drive South – the goal, as for 99% of
backpackers coming down here, being Queenstown.
I hop on the road and start
wandering South in the heat of the day, through green farmlands and lush
countryside. I stop for lunch in a small town just outside Auckland, a nice
beach to walk on while having my sandwich. Soaking in the spring sun, taking
the first pictures of this unknown world, I enjoy simply being there.
I enjoy feeling completely alone,
nothing (well, not exactly nothing..) to be worrying about, just enjoying the
sun, the tidal waves crashing gently on the shore, a few birds chirping about.
I think this is the first thought made by anybody who leaves home to travel,
the thought of him enjoying life while the others at home (say him a month
before) are working their asses hard, cursing their jobs, living in grey
urbanized towns and dealing with duchebags all day long.
I was pleased already by the choice
made.
After a few shots along the beach,
to a nice red flower and a rainforest-looking tree, I walk back to the car and resume
the driving. I do have a schedule, after all. I’m booked for a couch-surfing
stay, in some town due South where I arranged to stay at a guy’s place for the
night.
I had never couch-surfed before.
Totally new to the system. I just knew I’d have never let a stranger into my
house, let alone into my house without me around – as this guy was going to do
with me. And apparently some other fellas.
Driving South I was thinking, “How
is it even possible for this man to have literally strangers walking in his
house, staying there for the night, using his bathroom and other facilities,
without even him being around and keeping an eye on the situation?”. I was
puzzled. Again, totally new to the system. But I was soon to find out the
mechanics.
I arrive in town on time, actually
earlier than needed, so I take a walk on Main street. The place looks empty, as
like just swept by a tornado. Just swept of people, not buildings. I see a few
familiar sights, a McDonalds, a Domino’s. I feel something in my stomach
calling for pizza.
Alright, pizza will be.
I walk the pizza back to the car
and drive uphill to the man’s house. I park opposite side of the road from it,
waiting with a slice of pizza in my hands like a killer waiting for his prey to
come out.
I was actually waiting for the man
to come out: all I knew from our last conversation was to meet him on the
street, he’d have come out on his way to work. It was about 6PM, no signs of
human activity of sort.
My pizza eaten, just a Domino’s box
to be chucked out, I wonder where in the world the guy was. I didn’t want to
spend motel money so I had to make sure he didn’t run away without letting me
in. I ring the bell of his supposed home, but get no answer. At that very
moment, a car dashes out of the garage, driving towards the street. I run
towards it, waiving at the driver, that promptly stops.
“You Emanuele?”
“Yes sir!”
“Hey, I was waiting for ya, thought
you gave up. Com’on in, I’ll quickly show you around, gotta be at work in 5!”
While we enter the house from the
garage, he goes on: “ Alright, so here’s the bathroom, kitchen’s down that way,
these rooms are already occupied by other couchsurfers.. see that room? There’s
a girl that has been there for what, a week I guess? She might be in there
sleeping right now. Anyway, you can sleep in the living room tonight, there’s
an air mattress inflated for ya behind the door. If you have any questions text
me. Help yourself in the kitchen for tomorrow’s breakfast! I won’t be home so
nice meeting ya, take care mate!”
And goes away.
Holy cow. I was in this unknown
little town in what looked like a madhouse. A businessman in his forties living
possibly alone but housing strangers passing by for a night, or two, or
twentytwo (who knew?), without even being there to check on them. And, telling
them to help themselves in the kitchen for breakfast.
For real? That’s how it works down
here? “If that guy was doing this in Italy,” I thought “he’d spend more time at
the police station denouncing robberies than anywhere else”. But we weren’t in
Italy, and I was too tired to think about him. My only thought was for the air
mattress and to unrolling my sleeping bag.
I go back to the car, take out the
necessary items, and pay a quick visit to the restroom for a shower.
In opening my toiletry bag (which
is nothing more than a plastic bag) I have one unpleasing present. You know,
when your bags aren’t hard-cased but are handled by people who couldn’t care
less about them so that they throw them without regard on the airport’s
conveyor belts? Well, in those cases something might happen. In that case,
something happened to me.
I open the bag and I find out that
my small shower gel bottle opened. Gel everywhere: on my toothbrush, on my
razorblades, on my bendages, on my swiss knife. The latter worries me the most:
the blades feel like stuck in and it’s hard to pull them out. I suspect it
could be already too late to save it.
On the other hand though, I’m too
tired to be too worried. I give the whole package a quick cleanse, pack
everything back up in a different plastic bag and head for the mattress.
“I’ll think about it tomorrow”, in
my perfect do-it-tomorrow style.